If you are looking to compare some of the best climbing harnesses for great comfort, superb stability, or best in class versatility, you will want to look over this guide for the Black Diamond Momentum climbing harness.
The guide will look at a few of these areas, in addition to a couple more, so you can make the best decision on if this harness is the right one for you, or not.
Adding another climbing harness to your collection is a great way to round out your climbing ability, as no one harness can encompass everything that you need. This harness covers a lot of ground as far as utility, but you can decide how it best fits you.
Even if you’re not looking to add to the collection, but looking to replace, you will still need to know as much as possible about the Black Diamond Momentum Review.
The guide will give a good look into the specific details of the climbing harness and will help you make the best possible decision.
Black Diamond Momentum Review Climbing Harness Score
- Versatility – 5 out of 10
- Belaying Comfort – 6 out of 10
- Features – 6 out of 10
- Standing Comfort/Mobility – 5 out of 10
- Hanging Comfort – 5 out of 10
How Well Does the Black Diamond Momentum Climbing Harness Actually Perform?
Great Dual Core Construction
Being that the Black Diamond Momentum is so cheap, it’s a really quality harness. Dual Core construction is used in the belt of the waist.
This is great, because similar to the Black Diamond Chaos harness, this evenly distributes your weight perfectly so that one part of your harness is not overly stressed, therefore making your harness last a whole lot longer.
Also, this gives you bonus comfort as no one part of your body is stressed against the climbing harness. You will definitely want to look out for this feature with this and other climbing harnesses because the amount of stress your harness takes is directly related to how long your climbing harness is going to be around.
You will want to evenly spread the resistance around the harness to give it the longest life possible.
Padding in the Momentum is super good as well. Unlike the Black Diamond Chaos, the padding is very thick and gives a ton of support which is a huge plus.
Interestingly enough, however, this climbing harness is actually only about 12 ounces, which is surprising because it has some of the thickest padding stitched into the waist.
Another great feature is the adjustable leg loops. Not every climbing harness has adjustable, which is a little bit of a mystery as this is typically the part of the harness that sees the most stress, so if not properly sized to fit the climber, this can become a real problem.
Luckily the Momentum has buckles that can be adjusted to fit your legs really well.
Even though they do have great adjustment for the leg loops, this harness unfortunately does run a little small. If you find this to be a problem and you just can’t seem to adjust the harness to your liking, you may need to go up a size.
Is the Black Diamond Momentum Climbing Harness Comfortable When Hanging?
Dual Core Weight Distribution
Because of the Dual Core construction of the Momentum, your weight is distributed pretty evenly. One half of your weight is stressed more in the leg loops of the harness, and the half is fed in the waist area, which is a mostly fair weight spread.
After a longer period of time, it isn’t the most comfortable, but it does the better than other harness models.
Long hang time is a little bit different than strong resistance hanging, like when you are actively climbing or when you are belaying your partner, so the amount of comfort while hanging versus doing another activity is definitely something you will want to look out for.
Leg Loops Feel Good
The leg loops are really easy to adjust being that they are basically two large padded straps, so there isn’t much to worry about with either of them. Comfort with the waist may be a little bit of an issue, however. It ends up riding up a little in the crotch area after a longer period of time, making your climb a little frustrating at times.
It definitely will not put a huge damper on your climb, as a lot of other climbing harnesses have this problem, but it is still annoying enough to be mentioned.
Does the Black Diamond Momentum Climbing Harness Let You Be Mobile and Comfortable While Standing?
Good Standing Comfort
When you are standing up, there isn’t really a problem with comfort with this particular climbing harness. Again, you may still need to check the sizing on this one because it does run a little small. But once you get your size correct it shouldn’t be a problem.
A Little Bulky and Unsightly
If you are worried about the look of the harness when standing, you might be a little turned off by the Momentum. The padding, which while on the climb is super comfortable and useful, is a little bulky looking.
It is pretty wide in the leg loops and in the waist and looks a good bit different than other climbing harnesses because of this. You may enjoy the sleek, minimalist look of other harnesses over the thicker, cumbersome look of the Momentum.
However, when supporting a heavier rack it holds up really well. No uncomfortable amount of pressure and you won’t get too much of a sagging feeling either. Though, as you will read a little later, the gear loops aren’t all the big, you will still be able to carry heavier equipment while still not feeling it.
This is somewhat due to the rigidness of the gear loops, as many other climbing harnesses have pretty soft loops that don’t hold up as well to high weight gear.
Since it’s a littler thick padding than most, it feels even better with thicker clothing as well.
Hard to Find the Right Pack
A downside with the Black Diamonds Momentum bulky build is that it is a little tough to find the right backpack to go along with it. Your backpack is already bulky enough, but the waist strap especially crowds the pack and makes it difficult to stay in the harness for a long period of time.
Surprisingly, if you were to compare other similarly built harnesses, the Momentum would probably come out as the most mobile, despite its bulk.
Does the Black Diamond Momentum Climbing Harness Have Lots of Features?
Simple But Strong Features
The features of the Momentum are pretty simple, but each one is a strong contender to be best in class. There is a solitary auto-locking buckle at the waist and it’s really intuitive to work with. The auto-lock is a great feature.
Without it, you might always be worrying about which way you are moving because a buckle that doesn’t auto-lock may become more loose as time goes on. Plenty of climbing buckles are built very well, but the auto lock just ensures the safest design.
Adjustable Leg Loops
Most impressive is the adjustable leg loops. These trakFit adjusters are made of plastic and pretty much can’t be undone because they don’t need to be threaded through, which is a big bonus.
You’ll be positioning the slider one way while you manipulate a patch of elastic to get the loops to adjust. It can be done extremely quickly which is why it is so intuitive.
Rigid Gear Loops
The haul loop is a pretty well designed part of the harness. The rigid gear loops are also a big plus. All the loops are very sturdy and super easy to attach equipment to.
The size may sometimes be an issue, as they are not as large as some other harness gear loops, but these will definitely get the job done. Other Black Diamond models actually have a fifth gear loop, or they oversize a couple of them, like in the Black Diamond Chaos’s design.
It doesn’t have anywhere to clip on ice clippers to the harness. This isn’t a deal breaker, but if you’re adamant about having that availability to ice climb with every harness, you might be disappointed.
Is the Black Diamond Momentum Climbing Harness Comfortable When Belaying?
It Doesn’t Have the Best Climbing Comfort
In this part of the design, the Momentum doesn’t exactly stand out from other climbing harnesses. However it definitely is not a negative aspect of the harness, but only an average feel.
It obviously depends on the strength and competency of the climber how much this kind of annoyance will affect them, but if the comfort level of the leg loops while belaying were across the board at a higher level, you wouldn’t ever have to worry about experience level or strength of the belayer.
Leg Loops Still Provide Ok Comfort
When you are belying, most of the strain is felt in the leg loops, as this is where most of your stability comes from.
The thick padding does a pretty great job of keeping your legs from getting sore and from getting that tight, cutting feeling for a good while. With thinner harnesses, this sensation definitely comes pretty quick.
However, as stated before, this particular climbing harness does ride up a little bit, more so when you are belaying because more stress is concentrated in that area.
This may be because of the poorer design on this section, and also may reflect why this harness is a good bit cheaper than some others.
Is the Black Diamond Momentum Climbing Harness Versatile?
Not Too Versatile
This may be the part where the Momentum lacks the most in comparison with other climbing harnesses. Though its quality features are really strong, smaller than preferable gear loops hold it back, as well as the slightly bulky nature of the padding on the harness.
Longer free routes might not be in your best interest with this climbing harness since the gear loops are pretty small. Also, since the padding is a little bulky, wearing a pack may present a challenge.
If you’re going to be going to the gym or if you are going crag climbing, this will still be a good option for those specific climbs.
You may want to have another climbing harness specifically for climbing in places where the Black Diamond Momentum lacks the ability to assist you properly, but maybe that is what you are looking for and already have harnesses that will accommodate those specialized kinds of climbs.
Does the Black Diamond Momentum Climbing Harness Have Good Value?
It’s one of the most affordable, quality harnesses, so it is definitely a great buy. Comfort, adjustability, and performance all make the Momentum a great choice, especially when you add the affordability aspect into the mix.
These factors may beat out other harnesses that are either of a little higher quality but still very pricy, or those harnesses that are similarly priced, but don’t have nearly the same kind of strong features that the Black Diamond Momentum climbing harness does.
Pros and Cons of the Black Diamond Momentum Climbing Harness
- Adjustable leg loops
- Small gear loops
- Oversized padding
- Rides up
What’s the Verdict on Black Diamond Momentum Climbing Harness?
It’s Great for Traditional and Gym Climbs
The Black Diamond Momentum is a great pick for a standard trad climb and a gym climb. It’s got great padding making it super comfortable while a little bulky, so you may be limited in either the pack you carry or the climb you go on.
It is also amazingly affordable, especially for it being so manipulatable with its was it and leg loop buckle. The gear loops are a little lacking in size, it can still hold pretty weighty cams, carabiners, and rope without breaking a sweat.
The Black Diamond Momentum is a very comfortable, high quality climbing harness that is actually affordable compared to many other great climbing harnesses.
You can use it if you’re planning to train in the gym, and you can use it just fine for clipping bolts. Using it on a traditional climb is just as good as in the gym as well.
Versatility is a bit of an issue with this one, as It isn’t the greatest if you are trying to ice or alpine climb since it doesn’t feature any ice clipper spots, but most other climbs will easily be well served by this climbing harness.
The ease of use is also a pretty big deal for this climbing harness, and also it’s a lot more affordable than most.
If affordability and comfort are really important to you, the Momentum is a great choice for you.